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Epoxy Flooring FAQs

The questions we get asked on almost every estimate, answered properly.
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General Questions About Epoxy Flooring

Estimate only — your final price depends on concrete condition, repairs, and prep required.
  • General Questions About Epoxy Flooring
For most GTA garages, full broadcast flake with a polyaspartic topcoat gives the best balance of cost, durability and appearance. Choose quartz if slip resistance is the priority, metallic if you want a feature floor. There is no universal best, only the right fit. Compare all three systems.
Flake, at $7 to $9 per sq ft, is textured, hides dust and tire marks, and suits family garages and basements. Metallic, at $11 to $20+, is smooth, marbled and reflective. If you want a hardworking floor, choose flake. If you want a statement floor, choose metallic.
Epoxy is the hard, chemical resistant base layer, but it ambers in sunlight. Polyurethane and polyaspartic are topcoats that add UV stability and flexibility, polyaspartic being the premium option and part of the polyurea family. Our systems pair an epoxy base with a polyaspartic or polyurethane topcoat.
Yes. It is seamless, so there are no grout lines for damp to sit in, it handles humidity far better than laminate or carpet, and it wipes clean. The one condition is moisture testing, since basement slabs often need a vapour barrier primer first. How the moisture barrier works.
Epoxy, almost every time. Tile means grout lines that collect salt and grit, and individual tiles crack under jack stands or chip when tools drop. Epoxy is one seamless surface with no joints, cleans with a mop, installs faster and usually costs less over its life.
You can, but a hardware store kit dries at 3 to 5 mils against our 24 to 40+, and it relies on acid etching rather than grinding. It usually looks good for a season, then a hot tire lifts it. Removing a failed coating costs more than doing it properly.
It helps, though nobody can honestly quote you a percentage. A clean, seamless garage or basement floor reads as a maintained property and makes the space feel usable rather than stored in. It also protects the concrete from salt, oil and freeze damage, whether you sell or not.
  • INSTALLATION AND TIMELINES
Mechanical preparation, every time. We diamond grind the full slab to strip old sealers, paint and oil contamination, and cut a CSP 2 to 3 profile so the coating bonds into the concrete rather than sitting on it. Cracks are then repaired and moisture tested. We never acid etch.
Most residential projects take two to three days on site. Day one is preparation and repair, day two is primer, base coat and flake or quartz broadcast, day three is the topcoat. Commercial projects take longer depending on size, slab condition and whether the work needs phasing.
  • About 24 hours before light foot traffic
  •   Two to three days before furniture, tools and shelving
  •   Three to seven days before parking a vehicle

The vehicle window matters most, because hot tires mark a coating that has not fully hardened. We give you specific dates before we leave.

No. Coating a slab with high moisture or vapour transmission causes blistering and delamination, sometimes within months. That is why moisture testing is part of our free inspection. High readings get a vapour barrier primer, and an active leak needs fixing before we coat anything.
Sometimes. If the existing coating is well bonded across the whole slab with no peeling or blistering, we can abrade it and build over the top. If it is lifting, contaminated or of unknown origin, it has to come off. We will assess it at the free inspection.
Most damage is repairable as part of preparation. Cracks are cut, cleaned and filled, and pitting and spalling are patched and ground flat. Severely heaved or structurally compromised slabs are a different conversation, and we will tell you at the estimate stage if that is the case.
It affects installation more than the finished floor. Resin cures slowly in the cold, so winter work needs controlled conditions and longer cure windows. Once cured, the floor handles Canadian winters well. Polyaspartic topcoats stay flexible through freeze and thaw, and the sealed surface resists road salt.
  • DURABILITY AND PERFORMANCE
Our systems finish at 24 to 40+ mils, built up from primer, base coat, broadcast layer and topcoat. A mil is one thousandth of an inch, so that is roughly a credit card. A hardware store kit dries at 3 to 5 mils, thinner than a business card.
A properly installed floor does not. Peeling traces back to three causes: inadequate surface preparation, untreated moisture pushing up from below, or contamination like oil or old sealer left in the slab. All three are prevented by full diamond grinding, moisture testing and the right primer.
Standard smooth epoxy is moderately slippery when wet, much like tile or polished concrete. Our quartz system is slip resistant by design, and a non slip additive can be worked into any topcoat. Tell us at the inspection and we will build in the right texture. See our quartz system.
  • MAINTENANCE
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  • Acidic and citrus based cleaners and vinegar, which dull the topcoat

  • Steel wool, wire brushes and abrasive scouring pads

  • Dragging heavy or unpadded metal furniture across the surface

  • Parking on a floor that has not fully cured

  • Letting brake fluid or battery acid sit

Yes. Chips, scratches and worn patches can usually be repaired and recoated without redoing the whole floor. Because our systems are built in layers, a worn topcoat can often be abraded and refreshed, extending the floor’s life at a fraction of the original cost.
  • PRICING
  • Flake epoxy: $7 to $9 per sq ft
  • Quartz epoxy: $8 to $11 per sq ft
  • Metallic epoxy: $11 to $20+ per sq ft

Where you land depends on concrete condition, repairs, moisture mitigation, size and access. Use the cost estimator for a ballpark figure.

Because something is being left out. Usually the grinding, replaced with a quick acid etch, the moisture testing, skipped entirely, or the coating thickness, cut by thinning products or dropping the topcoat. Ask each contractor how they prepare the slab, whether they test moisture, and the finished mil thickness.
No. The on site inspection, the moisture testing and the written estimate are all free, with no obligation to proceed.

Still Have Questions?

Ask us. We would rather answer twenty questions before the job than have you find out something important afterwards.
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